By far, the greatest attraction in Kenya is the Maasai Mara game reserve. The park encompasses over 1500 sq km of vast savannah, which hosts the annual wildebeest migration. Every July and August, huge herds of wildebeest migrate over 960 km from Tanzania’s Serengeti through the Masai Mara grazing on the rich plains only to return in October and November. Accompanying these herds are giraffes, zebras and elephants. In the river I saw many hippos and a few crocodiles. Of course the most thrilling to see are the big cats: lion, leopard and cheetah. For bird lovers, there are carnivorous species such as vulture and eagles and then the very beautiful lilac breasted roller adds color to the vista.
For me, the most intriguing inhabitants of the Masai Mara are the Maasai tribe. These semi nomadic, native people live in huts made from cow dung, sticks and grass. Surrounding their huts is a circular wall they built from dried brush and shrubs with small gates that close at night to keep out predators. Their entire existence is dependent upon their herds of cattle, which share their village at night. In the morning, the women rise early, milk the cows, make porridge for breakfast, collect the dung and get ready for their day. The women build the huts, make the jewelry, and care for the family and village while the men tend to the cattle.
The entire diet for the Maasai men exists of cattle blood mixed with milk for breakfast and at night, only beef for dinner. As young men, they prove themselves fearless by piercing their ears and stretching the lobes into long loops. Many brave warriors have demonstrated their courage by pressing a burning stick against their flesh. Small circular scars all over their bodies are evidence of their ability to withstand pain.
These young men are preparing for the circumcision ceremony that marks their entry into adulthood. Each young Maasai must endure this ceremony and the men must kill a lion to become a warrior. All of this happens before they marry. Once married, the men are no longer warriors, but tend to their cattle daily. The women are available for marriage at 13 years old and can be one of many wives.
For the Maasai, family and cattle are paramount. I met one mother who was 57 years old and had a 9-month-old baby! The infant was her seventh child and was the wife of one of the elders. This particular village had 3 elders; the oldest was 93 years old. They make all the decisions for the village and occasionally request the wisdom of the Medicine Man. These verdicts are set into law and no one would ever refute them.
The Medicine Man shared with me some of his powders and their powers. In his pouch were mostly healing herbs, but he share that he had many protection powders that would keep a Maasai warrior safe in times of conflict or danger. He read my fortune from the stones and marbles in his sacred gourd. He told me that one day soon I would return to Kenya, but that I wouldn’t be alone. He also told me that I should travel and keep traveling until I am tired.
The Maasai people are warm and kind people who welcomed me into their village. I was honored to walk among this culture that lives contentedly without electricity, cars, plumbing or any other modern-day conveniences so often taken for granted. They live happily as their ancestors did years ago. I learned a lot from these people and I honor their culture.
